‘Adventure and climb on most stunning and magnificent peaks in all Himalaya’
- Mode of Accommodation: Lodges on trek and camping at BC &climb
- Climbing Grade: Full Fledge Mountaineering Expeditions
- Expedition Duration: 25 Nights & 26 Days
- Total Expeditions: 31 Nights & 32 Days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)
- Season: March to May and September to November
Mount Ama Dablam Expedition leads you to an adventurous thrill on top of magnificent and most stunning peaks in the Himalaya, Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition where adventure takes you in the heart of Everest and Khumbu region.
Mt. Ama Dablam Expeditions, where adventure starts next to well-worn path at Pangboche the last permanent village on route Everest Base Camp, majestic Mt. Ama Dablam towers above 6,814m and 22,355 ft high, one of the highest 6,000 m and most beautiful looking peaks to look as well for adventurous climb to its summit top.
Mt. Ama Dablam Expeditions which is getting popular and as well admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. This Expedition offers superb climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions within Sherpa country interwoven with Buddhism religion and age-old heritage similar to across the border Tibetans.
The mountain’s impressive beauty has made it a highly coveted prize for climbers, since its first ascent in 1961 by an Anglo-American-New Zealand team and it has been climbed frequently and by many different routes.
Where our route begins to Mt. Ama Dablam Expeditions from the original South West Ridge, offering superb climbing experience, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points along the route.
Apart from few short sections it is objectively very safe where the route of the climb description is included in our detail itinerary.
Starting our overwhelming and wonderful adventure Mt. Ama Dablam Expeditions, taking a smooth scenic flight from the capital Kathmandu to land at interesting Sherpa town at Lukla where its airport named Tenzing & Hillary tribute to late legendary mountaineers.
From Lukla walk follows on nice scenic trail past nice farm villages of Ghat-Phakding and Monjo to enter into Sagarmatha National Park (Sagarmatha for Everest in Nepalese while Sherpa calls Comolungma) and then on high hills to reach at famous Namche Bazaar a large village or a town.
At Namche enjoy rest day for acclimatization and browse around the market with well stocked stores, shops, many restaurants, hotels with banks, post office including facilities of ATM.
After Namche on pleasant scenic walks towards Thyangboche Monastery a charming spot surrounded with tall alpine woodland with spectacular panorama of mountains of Mt. Everest and close views of magnificent Mt. Ama Dablam.Slowly walk leads to our destination at Ama Dablam base camp after trekking past Pangboche village, at base camp with ample time preparation and practice for final ascent on top Ama Dablam.
Enjoying the scenic views with successful climb return journey on the same route back to Lukla after a great adventure of a lifetime experience on Mt. Ama Dablam Expeditions.
- Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotels.
- Day 02-03 In Kathmandu optional tour and preparation for Expeditions.
- Day 04 Fly to Lukla 2,886m and walk to Phakding 2,640m - 04 hrs
- Day 05 Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,440 m - 06 hrs.
- Day 06 Rest day at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization.
- Day 07 Trek to Pangboche 3,900 m via Thyangboche - 06 hrs.
- Day 08 Trek to Ama Dablam base camp 4,580 m - 04 hrs.
- Day 09 Rest Day at Base Camp preparation for the climb.
- Day 10-24 (15 days) Climbing duration and ferrying gear to respective camps on route ascent to Mt. Ama Dablam and back at base camp after an ascent (15 days).
- Day 25 At base camp cleaning up and packing.
- Day 26 Trek to Thyangboche 3,867 m - 06 hrs.
- Day 27 Trek to Monjo 2,860 m via Namche Bazaar - 06 hrs.
- Day 28 Trek to Lukla - 04 hrs.
- Day 29 Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
- Day 30-31 In Kathmandu with sightseeing tour.
- Day 32 International departure for home ward bound.
Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotels.
On arrival at Kathmandu international airport, received by Himex guides and staff with warm welcome and then transfer to your hotels in the hub of Kathmandu city, after checking in getting refreshed rendezvous with other climbing members and staff.
Here our chief guide and group leader will brief you regarding treks and climb on Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition,with welcome group dinner in lively Nepalese Restaurants includes folk cultural program of all Nepalese cultures.
In Kathmandu optional tour and preparation for Expeditions.
Reserved and two full days in Kathmandu for final preparations and packing as well to purchase necessary equipments, meeting and to collect permits from concern Government department for the expeditions.
On this day where one can take an optional sightseeing tour at places of interest around Kathmandu-Patan and Bhaktapur cities, where you will be soaked within culture and historical sites most of the monuments listed as World Heritage Sites.
Fly to Lukla 2,886m and walk to Phakding 2,640m - 04 hrs
Morning transfer to Kathmandu domestic airport for sweeping 30 minutes scenic flight in a smaller aircraft to Lukla with panorama of snow clad mountains with Everest in view during airborne.
On reaching at Lukla airport named Tenzing & Hillary Airport, after sorting out gear and getting refreshed start walk to Phakding for overnight stop, as the route leads towards many Sherpa farm villages with great views, and the slowly walk reaches you at Phakding village for first overnight in Khumbu region.
Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,440 m - 06 hrs.
Morning walk starts walking on the bank of Dudh Kosi River, crossing bridges to reach at the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park in Monjo village, after checking inside the Park walk leads to last village at Jorsalle.
From here walk leads to cross last high bridge and then with uphill walk for few hours heading towards Namche Bazaar, here with two nights in this prosperous large village as well the main centre and capital of Khumbu, where one can find facilities of ATMs, Cyber cafes, stores, shops, restaurants, banks and fresh bakery with busy colorful Saturday market.
Rest day at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization.
Namche an ideal place for acclimatization, on rest relax or take a short hike up to the park museum which houses great range of information from mountaineering, flora- fauna with Sherpa cultures and Buddhist religion.
From here enjoy grand panorama of high snow capped mountains with Mt. Everest and stunning peak Ama Dablam, other optional walk up to Everest View Hotel for another beautiful views of surrounding mountains.
Trek to Pangboche 3,900 m via Thyangboche - 06 hrs.
After a pleasant rest at Namche, morning walk on gradual winding trail into rhododendron woodland with views of Ama Dablam, Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Tharmarserku and Kwangde peaks.
Walk leads to a descend reaching at Imjatse River in Phunge Tenga, after a refreshing stop climb for few hours into a cool serene forest to Thyangboche Monastery.
A scenic spot with grand views of Ama Dablam, Kangtenga, Tharmarserku, Kwangde and Mt. Everest, a holy spot as the head lama (Rinpoche) of the monastery resides here.
Mountaineers take blessing from high lama or priest for successful climb and safe expedition.
After a tour of the monastery with fabulous views of mountain, walk continues downhill into lovely birch-rhododendron and pines forest, nice and pleasant area and then our route leads to cross a bridge over Imja Khola.
From the bridge climb to reach at Pangboche village for overnight stop with last day in the comfort of a lodge before heading towards Ama Dablam base camp with camping during the climb.
This is the last permanent village before Ama Dablam and route to Everest Base Camp, from here onward tree lines drops for short rhododendron and juniper bushes.
At Pangboche with time to visit the upper high village and its oldest monastery offers grand views of surrounding snow capped peaks.
Trek to Ama Dablam base camp 4,580 m - 04 hrs.
From Pangboche our true adventure starts with a descend towards Imjatse River after crossing a small wooden bridge, then with steep climb for an hour to reach a large grazing field with some Yak herders hut and shades.
Walk continues for another few hours with gradual up till Ama Dablam base camp is reached on a large grassy field beneath towering Mt. Ama Dablam, our first nights camp is set on a large wide field.
Rest Day at Base Camp preparation for the climb.
A necessary rest day at base camp for final preparation for the climb and onward adventure, here with time for hike to advance camp and to high hills for grand views of beautiful landscapes and mountains or just relax and enjoy the surrounding views in complete serenity.
(15 days) Climbing duration and ferrying gear to respective camps on route ascent to Mt. Ama Dablam and back at base camp after an ascent (15 days).
We have reserved maximum of 15 days for the climb to the summit of magnificent looking Mt. Ama Dablam, during these 15 days where all climbers and staff will be busy reloading and dividing gears for the final bid to the summit and returning back at base camp after a successful ascent.
It is hard to predict exact day by day itinerary during this period for the final conquest where team members will be divided into groups which involves working on the mountain route for several days before returning at Base Camp for rest.
While other team will push onward fixing ropes another group carrying loads up to higher camps, where a veteran climber Ray Delaney climbed from this South West ridge with Joe Simpson in April 1990.
The description of the route will be as follows from the Base Camp follow an old grassy moraine ridges roughly towards east into a broad saddle where one view Mingbo-La.
From this saddle turning north to climb up a rocky surface and then finally into boulders reaching a ridge below Pt.5, 705 which is the site of camp I, where four to five tents platforms available for camp.
From Camp I:
Crossing a rocky bowl (tricky in snow covered) until below two rock fingers, then moving ahead to a ridge proper, and then climb to a ridge which involves rock climbing of severe standard with steps of VS (USA 5.6) or Camp II is at the top yellow tower, which gives one of the hardest pitches on the climb at VS/Hard VS (5.8) or French grade of AD to TD + quite tough of technical difficulty but approachable using high mountaineering skill.
From Camp II:
Climb leads to skirt a red rock bluff on the east to follow a ramp line up towards a Gray Tower, and then. moving into a ramp with some stone fall danger on this section of climb to an amphitheater.
Continue climb up on a broad gully between the Gray Tower and then towards lower rock buttress and climb to a snow slope reaching at ' Santa's Grotto' which is the start of Mushroom ridge, here for possible bivvy site.
Following a mushroom ridge towards a crevasse in the upper face, which provides another good bivvy site, as climb leads to a snow/ Ice slope to the right of the face, and then following a mixed ground to the top of the highest hanging glacier, where Ama Dablam got its name as Mother with Jewel Box.
An ice crest now leads all the way to its magnificent position right to its summit.
Enjoy the Grand Views! From the summit of all Khumbu Himal range of peaks with Mt. Everest towards North with array of mountains including world 5th highest Mt. Makalu in the east direction.
After feeling in high spirit after the conquest, where all climbers need to be back at the base camp by Day 24-25. At this point all our porters and Yaks will arrive to collect the gears for return walk to Lukla.
At base camp cleaning up and packing.
Where all team-members should be at Base Camp for final re-grouping, including guide and staff, to assist packing equipments and checking each member health condition after a great adventure and climb on top Ama Dablam.
Start packing all climbing gears and disposing garbage in proper sites, where SPPC (Sagarmatha Pollution Control) will check the camp and depositing the litter to take away from the base camp to disposal sites or back to Kathmandu.
Trek to Thyangboche 3,867 m - 06 hrs.
Morning after a successful ascent on top Mt. Ama Dablam, return journey to Pangboche and then towards scenic Thyangboche, as morning leads on downhill to Imjatse River with steep climb to reach at Pangboche village.
After a refreshing stop at Pangboche continues walk downhill to a bridge and then back into lush green vegetation and tree lines as walk leads to climb of few hour to reach at Thyangboche monastery for overnight stop in the comfort of a nice cozy lodge facing views of Ama Dablam and Everest.
Trek to Monjo 2,860 m via Namche Bazaar - 06 hrs.
Walk continues retracing on the same trail from Thyangboche with descend to Imjatse River at Phunge Tenga, after crossing a bridge then with steep climb for an hour to reach at near level path with pleasant enjoyable walks all the way to Namche Bazaar for short stop.
From Namche on downhill path to Dudh Kosi River bank, and then with few short ups and downs to reach at Sagarmatha National Park entrance and then walk to Monjo village for overnight stop in this lovely village near Sagarmatha National Park entrance.
Trek to Lukla - 04 hrs.
After Monjo rest of the journey is easy on the last and final trek to Lukla, after a memorable adventure and climb on Mt. Ama Dablam, last day walk leads on gradual winding trail passing Phakding and Ghat village then with last uphill climb to Lukla for lunch and overnight stop, evening party and last dinner at Khumbu area.
Fly to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
From Lukla flight starts from early morning to Kathmandu in fine clear weather, sometime the flight time can get delayed due to bad weather, as per the flight time board in a small plane for a super, scenic flight back to Kathmandu.
On reaching Katmandu domestic terminal our guide and staff transfer you back to respective hotels in the hub of Kathmandu in and around Thamel area.
In Kathmandu with sightseeing tour.
With full two days reserved as contingency or a spare day in case of flight delay and cancellation at Lukla, which can occur due to bad weather conditions on this free days enjoy relaxing or join in for sightseeing tour.
On this day where our leader and guide will submit the reports of Mt. Ama Dablam Expeditions to concern Nepal Government Tourism department.
International departure for home ward bound.
After a grand adventure and experience around high Khumbu with successful climb on top of the world, depart from the hotel to the airport for final departure homeward bound or to your respective destinations.
Price includes following services:
- Accommodation sharing twin at Hotel in Kathmandu for 6 nights on Bed & Breakfast basis.
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu.
- Half day guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu with applicable entrance fees.
- Internal flight Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu with applicable airport taxes.
- Trekking arrangement backed by Sherpa Guide and porters / yaks Lukla / Base Camp / Lukla sector and Camping arrangement at Base Camp and higher camps on full board basis.
- Applicable Climbing Permit & Conservation Fees.
- Service of Climbing Sherpa/s (1 member : 1 Climbing Sherpa) assisting in fixing ropes, setting up camps with their equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
- Group Climbing equipment – Climbing Rope, Fix Rope, Snow Bars.
- Service of Government Liaison Officer with his equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
- HA Tents, Food, Fuel above base camp.
- Garbage Disposal and Garbage Deposit charge.
- Supply of Oxygen for medical purpose at BC.
- Supply of Walkie Talkie and Base Station for communication purpose.
- Supply of Satellite Phone for communication purpose on emergencies.
- Supply of Medical Kit and Gammow Bag to be used in case of emergency.
- Load ferry bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpas.
- Climbing Route opening charge.
- Transfer of Expedition Loads to / from Base Camp.
- Insurance for Nepalese crew.
Our price does not include followings:
- International flights to / from Kathmandu.
- Nepal entry visa fees.
- Lunch and dinner while in Kathmandu Hotel.
- Travel, Medical and Personal insurance.
- Rescue evacuation in case of emergency.
- Personal clothing and personal trekking gear including sleeping bag & down jacket.
- All sorts of personal climbing equipment.
- Expenses of personal nature, i.e. tipping, laundry, bottled drinks, bar bills etc.
- Any expense for early returning member due sickness, injury or any other reason. No refund will be entertained for any unused service.
- Extra expense occurred due to unexpected circumstances like cancellation of internal flights, floods, strike etc.
For the Expedition of 8000m, one should not compromise with the quality of equipment. Please try to buy / pack well tested and good brand equipment so that your dream to climb the mountain does not disappoint you because of lack of equipment after the years of hard work, dedication and financial expenses.
Here will be a guideline of personal equipment that you need to organize for such extreme climb:
Personal Climbing Equipment List for 6,500 – 7,500meters
|01||Three season sleeping bag(-40 Degree)||1||1|
|02||Down Jacket (-30 Degree)||1||1|
|03||Fleece Pile Jacket (Thermal)||2||2|
|04||Fleece Pile Trouser Warm (Thermal)||2||2|
|05||Windproof Jacket &Trouser||1||1 Pair|
|06||T-shirt and Woolen Shirt Warm||1/1||2|
|07||Woolen Hat, Fleece Hat & Balaclava||1||3|
|08||Gore-Tex Gloves||1||1 Pair|
|09||Down Mitten Gloves||1||1 Pair|
|10||Fleece Gloves||1||1 Pair|
|12||Face Mask (Full)||1||1|
|13||Thick Woolen Shocks & Normal Shocks||1pairs/3pairs||4 Pairs|
|14||Trekking Boot Good Condition||1 pair||1 Pair|
|15||Camp Shoes||1||1 Pairs|
|16||Sunglasses UV 400 (Julboo/Ockley/others)||1||1|
|17||Snow Glasses UV 400 (Julboo/Ockley/Cebe/others)||1||1|
|18||Sun-block Cream (Small Tube 30SPF 125ml and 50SPF 125ml)||½||1|
|20||Headlight with Spare Bulbs||1||1|
|21||Enough Batteries for Headlight||1 Pair||4 Pairs|
|22||Climbing Boot (Millet or similar)||1 pair||1 Pair|
|23||Snow Gaiters Water Proof||1||1|
|24||Crampon Good Condition||1||1|
|25||Normal/Classical Ice Axe||1||1|
|26||Harness Adjustable Good Condition (Mix Climbing)||1||1|
|27||Ice screw Black Diamond or similar (Each Member -Size 13cm and16cm)||1||2|
|28||Screw Gate Carabineer (HMS)||2||2|
|29||Non Screw Gate Carabineer||2||2|
|30||Ascender (Jumar) Right Hand||1||1|
|31||Belay Device( Figure of 8/ATC)||1||1|
|32||Backpack 50ltr.Capacity with Waterproof Cover||1||1|
|34||Tape Sling - Each Member(60cm and 120cm)||1||2|
|35||Spare Changing Clothes for Low Elevation|
|36||Carry Mat (Thermarest)||1||2|
|37||Day Pack (Capacity 35 Ltrs with Waterproof Cover)||1||1|
|39||Personal Medication &First Aid Kit||1 set||1 Set|
|41||Water Bottle capacity 1Ltrs||1||1|