‘Climbing the Roof of the World’
- Adventure on top Mt. Everest with sweeping panorama of Khumbu Himal and towards Rongbuk in Tibet.
- Scenic flights with array of snow capped mountain views during air-borne including Mt. Everest.
- Following the footsteps of legendry mountaineers late Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary.
- Adventurous walks towards Mt. Everest within remorseless fields of ice and glaciers.
- Explore traditional and impressive Sherpa villages of great interest in the harmony of Buddhist culture.
- Walk along high scenic hills within dense forest of tall rhododendron-magnolia-oaks and pines trees.
- Around World Heritage Sites Sagarmatha National Park enrich with rich and flora / fauna and scenery.
- Mode of Accommodation: Lodge on trek with camping at BC & climb
- Trekking Grade: Adventurous
- Expeditions Grade: A Full Fledged Mountaineering expeditions
- Trek and climb duration: 51 nights and 52 days (Lukla to Lukla)
- Total Expeditions: 57 nights 58 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)
- Season: March to May
Mount Everest South Col Expeditions, a challenging feat of a lifetime experience, leads you to strenuous climb then inspires you with its grand scenery of mountains panorama from Khumbu Himal to Rongbuk side within Tibetan large plateau.
Mt. Everest rise to an imposing 8,848.86 m /29,032 ft, after 29 years of numerous attempts, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first people to stand on the elusive summit on May 29, 1953. Since then, the Everest South Col has seen over 1,000 ascents. It is by far, the most successfully climbed route on route to the mountain top.
Mt. Everest in Nepal known as Sagarmatha whereas Sherpa in Tibetan origin calls Chomolungma (Qomolangma), In both languages means "Goddess mother of the world". Mount Everest once went by the pedestrian name of Peak XV among westerners.
Before surveyors established that it was the highest mountain on Earth, a fact that came as something of a surprise-Peak XV had seemed lost in the crowd of other formidable Himalayan peaks, many of which gave the illusion of greater height.
In 1852 the Great Trigonometrically Survey of India measured Everest's elevation as 29,002ft above sea level. This remarkably accurate figure remained the officially accepted height for more than one hundred years. In 1955 it was adjusted by a mere 26 feet to 29,028 (8,848m). Again in 2020 the height of Everest has been updated to 8,848.86m / 29,032ft after the survey expedition organized by Nepal Government.
The mountain received its official name in 1865 in honor of Sir George Everest, the British Surveyor General from 1830-1843 who had mapped the Indian subcontinent. He had some reservations about having his name bestowed on the peak, arguing that the mountain should retain its local appellation, the standard policy of geographical societies.
Mt. Everest South Col Expedition:
Mt. Everest South Col is technically difficult to climb so it is not a "guided" ascent. This expedition will be led by professional and competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's highest mountains.
To match toughness of High Mountain, it is recommended that the team members should be suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised to ensure hundred percent successes.
But it doesn't mean that you are not supported by Sherpa guides. To ensure your success, you will have a high level of support backed by strong, confident leadership. This will maximize your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.
The Climb on to Mt. Everest South Col:
From base camp on Nepal side, the route to the summit can be divided into four separate sections:
- The Khumbu Icefall,
- The Western Cwm,
- The Lhotse Face,
- The Summit (South East) Ridge.
These distinct sections give the climb tremendous variety, although they do have their individual challenges and hazards. Being able to divide the mountain into four parts also has psychological benefits, enabling climbers to focus on each section and to measure their progress up the mountain more easily.
The Khumbu Icefall:
Before venturing into the Khumbu Icefall, members will be practiced in the specialist techniques of secure movement through complex ice terrain including ladder crossing and the use of fixed rope.
As soon as the route through the Icefall is prepared, we will be able to start carrying loads to camp 1.
All members will need to participate in the load carrying although this will be kept to a minimum. Our team of expert Sherpa will do the bulk of the load carrying in order to prevent members from burning themselves out too early.
The Western Cwm:
A normal course of events would be for everyone to reach camp 1 with a light load and then return to base camp. A day or two later, the team would occupy camp 1 and spend two or three nights there.
During the time, members may make a carry to camp 2, once the route has been prepared. Camp 2 is near the top of the Western Cwm and although this would not be fixed with ropes, members would need to be roped-up in case of hidden crevasses.
Following this, everyone would then return to base camp for a few days' rest.
The Lhotse Face:
The teams will then move up and occupy camp 2, which is in a spectacular position at the foot of the South West Face of Everest. Camp 2 is effectively an advance base camp and will be well stocked with supplies, including mess tent and cook tent. After spending two nights here, the team will make a light load carry to camp 3 on the Lhotse Face, at around 7,200m (23,600ft).
An ascent of Lhotse Face will give everyone a really good look at the climb and a flavor of things to come. We will then return to base camp for a prolonged rest while the Sherpa team and the expedition leaders prepare the top section of the climb.
This will be a real chance to recharge the batteries after a tough few weeks and to focus on the final ascent. During this phase, our past climbers have found it very beneficial to go all the way down to Pheriche, which at 4,300m (14,000ft) is low enough to recuperate fully.
The Summit (South East) Ridge:
When the weather is settled and calm, our team will move up, camp by camp, sleeping on oxygen at camp 3 and on the South Col, at camp 4. The summit day will start at around midnight, when, climbing on oxygen, we will set off with head torches from the South Col.
The route soon steepens as it ascends 500m (1,600ft) snow slope to reach a crest of the South East Ridge at around 8,400m (27,560ft) by dawn. The sun will bring with its great views across the Kangshung Face.
The ridge above this point starts easily and then steepens below the South Summit. Fixed ropes lead steeply for about 200m (650ft) from below the South Summit.
Standing on the South Summit the true summit looks very close but halfway between is the notorious Hillary Step which is a short, steep rock and snow groove about 10m (30ft) long. Strenuous jumaring and climb up this leads to the final easy ridge and the top, where you would expect to reach the summit by no later than 11a.m. For successful summiteers, it will be important for everyone to have left the summit by 12 o'clock noon for the descent. The entire team should be back before dark which comes rapidly at around 6:30 pm. The descent is extremely long and tiring and energy should be kept in reserve for this.
After spending another night sleeping with oxygen, the team will descend from camp IV, on the South Col, directly to reach camp 2 and then next day to base camp.
Safety and the Conduct of the Climb:
Although many people have now climbed Mt. Everest South Col, danger involved in climbing is always there. As strong wind poses great threat during the late afternoon, it is always advisable not to make any attempt in the afternoon.
Idea behind prevalent norms to make the climbing a great success without casualty, however, this will not be to the detriment of safety.
Safety will govern all decision making on the mountain and will be based on the sound mountaineering judgment of our highly experienced mountain guides. To support our guides on the mountain, we at Himalaya Expeditions (HimEx Nepal) will plan the expedition as thoroughly and carefully as possible using our own experience and knowledge of the mountain to maximum benefit.
Ultimately, the leader will have sole discretion on the implementation of any plan to climb the mountain and he will ensure that safety remains the prime consideration.
Apart from achieving self pride, the expedition is a part of enjoyment. So it will not be meaningful if anything happens to team member in course of competing to be on the top of mountain.
Whether you make on the top of mountain or not, you should cherish your memory that you spend together on the adverse condition of high Himalaya.
- Day 01 Arrive in Kathmandu via respective airlines meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
- Day 02 - 04 At leisure in Kathmandu.
- Day 05 Day 05: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla & trek to Phakding 35 minutes flight to Lukla 2,800m 08 km-03hrs walk to Phakding 2,652m.
- Day 06 Trek to Namche Bazaar, 3,440m - 06 hrs.
- Day 07 Rest Day at Namche Bazaar.
- Day 08 Trek to Thyangboche, 3,867m - 05 hours.
- Day 09 Trek to Dingboche, 4,358m - 05 hrs.
- Day 10 Rest Day at Dingboche.
- Day 11 Trek to Lobuche, 4,928m - 05 hrs.
- Day 12 Trek to Gorakshep, 5,180 m, climb to Kalapatthar and walk to Everest Base Camp 5,364 m - 06 hrs.
- Day 13 - 50 (37 days) Ascent of Mount Everest and withdrawal to Base Camp.
- Day 51 Clean up the base camp and packing for return journey.
- Day 52 Trek to Pheriche, 4,260 m - 06 hrs.
- Day 53 Trek to Khumjung, 3,790m – 06 hrs.
- Day 54 Trek to Monjo, 2,835m - 05 hrs.
- Day 55 Trek to Lukla - 04 hrs.
- Day 56 Fly Lukla-Kathmandu 30 min flight, overnight at hotel.
- Day 57 In Kathmandu rest and submit expeditions report to concern department.
- Day 58 Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Arrive in Kathmandu via respective airlines meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
In Kathmandu, we will stay at the Hotel. Team members will be accommodated on a twinsharing basis. If you prefer, you may have a single room for which a supplement at extra payable.
Day 02 - 04:
At leisure in Kathmandu.
The priority for the day will be to check everyone's equipment to make surethat it is equal to the conditions one can expect on Everest. The afternoon will be free for any last minute purchases that you may need to make from the well stocked climbing shops in the city.
Day 05: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla & trek to Phakding 35 minutes flight to Lukla 2,800m 08 km-03hrs walk to Phakding 2,652m.
Early morning transfer to Kathmandu domestic Airport and then board in a smaller aircraft (twin otter or Dornier) for scenic flight to Lukla.
At Lukla received by our guides and porters to carry your bigger bags with time to explore around, our first day walk starts with gradual downhill and then with few ups with view of Kusum-Kangru 6,369m.
As walk continues crossing short suspension bridge with short climb brings to reach Phakding village for overnight stop located near Dudh-Kosi River.
Trek to Namche Bazaar, 3,440m - 06 hrs.
From Phakding on crossing bridge over Dudh-Kosi, morning walk with some short uphill and downhill and re-crossing the same river again with magnificent view of Thamserku 6,608m.
After few hours of walks reaching at Monjo village and then walk to the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park. From the Park gate short descend Jorsalle village, last village before Namche Bazaar is reached, walk leads on river bank within green forested areas of pines-oaks and rhododendron tree.
On reaching the last high bridge where walk leads on a wide winding uphill trail all the way to Namche Bazaar, with magnificent view of Kwangde, Kusum Kangru, Mt. Everest- Nuptse , Lhotse peaks.
Namche Bazaar with excellent hotels and lodge situated in a U shaped bowl a major village / town of Khumbu region where colorful and busy Saturday Market is held every week.
Rest Day at Namche Bazaar.
Namche an ideal place for rest day for acclimatization and short hike, suggested activities walk to Sagarmatha National Park Headquarter, a magnificent spot perched on top Namche Bazaar with breathtaking view of surrounding high peaks with Mt. Everest and Ama-Dablam visit its interesting museum for wide information history of Himalayas, geographic, culture, mountaineering as well information on flora and fauna of the region, afternoon at free at leisure explore Namche Bazaar full of shops and stores.
Trek to Thyangboche, 3,867m - 05 hours.
Morning walks on fairly easy trail for first half, with few short up and downs overlooking magnificent view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kwangde-Ri peaks.
After a nice-pleasant walk of few hour reaching at Phungitenga 3,250m, a small settlement with couple of teahouses in the midst of alpine forest with silver fir, blue pines, rhododendron and some few magnolia and birch trees.
Afternoon walk leads to a climb for nearly two hours in the shade of tall trees till Thyangboche Monastery (Gompa) is reached for overnight stop.
This beautiful spot offers views of majestic and beautiful Mt. Ama Dablam with Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse and Lhotse Shar towards north east.
Trek to Dingboche, 4,358m - 05 hrs.
After a wonderful time at Thyangboche, our route descend into forest of birch, fir, juniper and rhododendron ,coming to lovely spot at Deoboche 3,650 m with magnificent view of Mt Ama Dablam, Mt. Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse.
On reaching a bridge uphill walk most of the way to Pangboche village at 3,900m. The walk continues towards east to cross a bridge and then heading ending at beautiful Imjatse valley for overnight stop in Dingboche village. Dingboche located within scenic Imja-Tse valley beneath Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Lhotse with views of Island peak or ImjaTse Himal above 6,189m high, a popular peak amongst all trekking peaks in Nepal.
Rest Day at Dingboche.
At Dingboche another rest day for short hike with few nice areas for short hikes up the hill for best glamorous views of the valley and mountains with Mt. Makalu towards east direction.
Trek to Lobuche, 4,928m - 05 hrs.
From Dingboche our route leads north on top of a small ridge with Buddhist monuments, from here walk on gentle path with views of Mt. Tawache, Ama Dablam and Pokalde peak.
After a nice pleasant walk of few hour, reaching a junction where Pheriche and Dingboche route joins at Thugla, and then crossing a small wooden bridge over torrential river fed from Khumbu glacier. From Thugla, an hour steep to the top, with view of Mt. Pumori and other peaks which is west of Everest, here observe many memorials of unfortunate climbers, who died in expeditions around Everest and other mountains of the region.
After a short rest continue walk for an hour with gradual ascend to Lobuche for overnight stop, Lobuche houses and lodge placed in a corner and well hidden and sheltered from the cold wind.
Trek to Gorakshep, 5,180 m, climb to Kalapatthar and walk to Everest Base Camp 5,364 m - 06 hrs.
Today, adventure leads to our final destination at foot of Mt. Everest, the first hour walk on gradual path with slow up and then short 20 minutes climb to reach a moraine above Khumbu glacier.
Walk from here follows on rocky moraine path to Gorakshep, located on a flat sandy field below Kalapatthar 5,545m and Mt. Pumori 7,145m. Gorakshep with few lodge and teahouses, this place was an earlier base camp of Everest till the end of 1980’s.
Here with time for climb to Kalapatthar of above 5,545 m high, offers stunning panorama of surrounding mountains with Mt. Everest at close distance. After a wonderful view from Kalapatthar descend to Gorakshep and continue walk to Everest Base Camp, leading over rocky dunes and moraine and streams, till Everest base camp is reached after 3 hrs of good walk from Gorakshep.
Day 13 - 50:
(37 days) Ascent of Mount Everest and withdrawal to Base Camp.
Allocated full 37 days for the climb with rest and preparations for the final bid to the summit of Mt. Everest, hoped that the Khumbu Ice-fall will be fixed by the time the team arrives at the Base Camp. Members can then start load-carrying to Camp I and Camp II, in the Western Cwm.
Once everyone is well acclimatized, Camp I will be mostly by-passed en-route for Camp II, which will become an Advance Base Camp. The route to this point will involve crossing the crevasses on ladders, jumaring up seracs walls and a long tedious plod-up the Western Cwm. Camp III will be placed half way up the Lhotse Face at about 7,400 meters high.
From here along rising traverse across the snow slopes, a yellow band of rock and the Geneva Spur, leads to the Couth Col and Camp IV. This will be fully established before a rest period at Base Camp.
Proceed to Camp I and ferry the loads between Base Camp and Camp I for 3 to 4 days.
Proceed to Camp II and rest, sort-out climbing equipment to establish fixed rope to Camp III.
Proceed to Camp III. Establish camp to dump loads and stay the overnight. Proceed to South
Col from Camp II and III to open route to the South Col, establish fixed rope.
South Col Camp is established to ferry Loads and to be deposited, movement of members to Camp III and South Col, to practice the route and get acclimatized to. Return to Camp III and II in continuation of acclimatization and route practice.
Return to Base Camp for rest, rebuilding the energy in preparation of the final assault. Re-grouping at the Base Camp for last minute preparations and perfect readiness to attempt the Summit, during this time our Sherpa staff do the ferrying of loads up to the South Col to make all camps fully equipped and self-sufficient with Oxygen, food, and necessary fuels.
Proceed to Camp I to start the final assault of Mt. Everest Summit.
Summit attempt starting at midnight hour toward South Summit, Hillary Step and to the final Summit of Mt. Everest, while members continue towards the Summit, few team of Sherpa will deposit some Oxygen cylinders near the South Summit to be used by members on return from the Summit attempt.
First Summit Party returns to the South Col, Camp III, II, I and the Base Camp. Second Summit Team continues and attempts, in turn.
All team-members are to re-group at the Base Camp and assist with packing-up the expedition and clearing the Base Camp areas.
Clean up the base camp and packing for return journey.
At Everest Base Camp clean up and packing, rubbish to be dump at designated dumping site, rest to be brought back to Kathmandu for proper disposal.
Trek to Pheriche, 4,260 m - 06 hrs.
Morning after a successful climb on top world highest Mt. Everest, return journey to Gorakshep and then walk to Thugla, from here downhill to Pheriche on a windy valley after a nice pleasant walk.
Trek to Khumjung, 3,790m – 06 hrs.
After breakfast, continue the descend via Pangboche taking an alternative route on a quiet trail to sleepy village at Phortse Tenga. From here uphill to Mong hill top with few lodge offering grand panorama of mountains.
After a climb head downhill near to Sanasa village and then with short climb to reach at Khumjung village for overnight stop, located on a glacial valley below the holy peak of Khumbi-la.
Here with time to visit one of the oldest monasteries of Khumbu, the only place that treasures a Yeti Scalp kept in safe glass box.
Trek to Monjo, 2,835m - 05 hrs.
Morning catch the views of snow capped peaks and then continue our journey with some options either walk straight to Namche Bazaar, or take a longer path visiting Khunde and its hospital built by Edmund Hillary Trust and Foundation.
Whichever route walk leads at Syangboche old small airstrip and with steep descend to Namche Bazaar, spend sometime at Namche for lunch and then walk downhill to Monjo for overnight stop before Lukla.
Trek to Lukla - 04 hrs.
From Monjo, a short walk to Lukla on this last day trek of the great adventure where route leads to short ups and downs, and then on a gradual winding trail with last climb to Lukla for overnight stop and for last dinner around Khumbu.
Fly Lukla-Kathmandu 30 min flight, overnight at hotel.
The flight time to Kathmandu, schedule at morning normally, sometimes flight can get delayed due to bad weather and other reason, depending upon flight time board in a small aircraft for super flight back to Kathmandu and then transfer back to your respective Hotels.
In Kathmandu rest and submit expeditions report to concern department.
A free day in Kathmandu, reserved in case of flight delay at Lukla, with spare day enjoy individual activities and shopping, as well to submit expeditions reports to concern Nepal Government department.
Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Today as per your international flight time, our staff transfers you to airport for final departure from the country of Himalayan Wonders with grand memories and experience on Mt. Everest South Col Expeditions.
Price includes following services:
- Accommodation sharing twin at Hotel in Kathmandu for 6 nights on Bed & Breakfast basis.
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu.
- Half day guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu with applicable entrance fees.
- Internal flight Kathmandu / Lukla / Kathmandu with applicable airport taxes.
- Trekking arrangement backed by Sherpa Guide and porters / yaks Lukla / Base Camp / Lukla sector and Camping arrangement at Base Camp and higher camps on full board basis.
- Applicable Climbing Permit & Conservation Fees.
- Service of Climbing Sherpa/s (1 member : 1 Climbing Sherpa) assisting in fixing ropes, setting up camps with their equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
- Group Climbing equipment – Climbing Rope, Fix Rope, Snow Bars.
- Service of Government Liaison Officer with his equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
- HA Tents, Food, Fuel above base camp.
- Garbage Disposal and Garbage Deposit charge.
- Supply of Oxygen (1 member : 5 Cylinders) with hiring charge of mask & regulator sets.
- Supply of Walkie Talkie and Base Station for communication purpose.
- Supply of Satellite Phone for communication purpose on emergencies.
- Supply of Medical Kit and Gammow Bag to be used in case of emergency.
- Load ferry bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpas.
- Climbing Route opening charge.
- Transfer of Expedition Loads to / from Base Camp.
- Insurance for Nepalese crew.
Our price does not include followings:
- International flights to / from Kathmandu.
- Nepal entry visa fees.
- Lunch and dinner while in Kathmandu Hotel.
- Travel, Medical and Personal insurance.
- Rescue evacuation in case of emergency.
- Personal clothing and personal trekking gear including sleeping bag & down jacket.
- All sorts of personal climbing equipment.
- Expenses of personal nature, i.e. tipping, laundry, bottled drinks, bar bills etc.
- Any expense for early returning member due sickness, injury or any other reason. No refund will be entertained for any unused service.
- Extra expense occurred due to unexpected circumstances like cancellation of internal flights, floods, strike etc.
For the Expedition of 8000m, one should not compromise with the quality of equipment. Please try to buy / pack well tested and good brand equipment so that your dream to climb the mountain does not disappoint you because of lack of equipment after the years of hard work, dedication and financial expenses.
Here will be a guideline of personal equipment that you need to organize for such extreme climb:
Personal Climbing Equipment List for 7500-8848meters
|01||Three season sleeping bag (-40 Degree)||1||1|
|02||Three season sleeping bag for B.C||1||1|
|04||Down Gore-Tex Suit||1||1|
|05||Down Jacket (-30 Degree)||1||1|
|06||Fleece Pile Jacket (Thermal)||2||2|
|07||Fleece Pile Trouser Warm (Thermal)||2||2|
|08||Windproof Jacket &Trouser||1||1 Pair|
|09||Thermal Suit (Millet/Mountain Hardware/Others)||2||2|
|10||T-shirt and Woolen Shirt Warm||3/3||6|
|13||Down Mitten Gloves-40 Degree||1||1|
|14||Woolen Hat, Fleece Hat & Balaclava||1||3|
|18||Face Mask (Full)||1||1|
|19||Thick Woolen Shocks & Normal Shocks||4 pairs/5 pairs||9 Pairs|
|20||Trekking Boot Good Condition||1 pair||1 Pair|
|21||Camp Shoes||1||1 Pairs|
|01||Sunglasses UV 400 (Julboo/Ockley/others)||2||2|
|02||Snow Glasses UV 400 (Julboo/Ockley/Cebe/others)||1||1|
|04||Sun-block Cream (Small Tube 30SPF 125ml and 50SPF 125ml)||½||3|
|06||Headlight with Spare Bulbs||1||2|
|07||Enough Batteries for Headlight||1 Pair||10 Pairs|
|08||One-sport Climbing Boot (Millet or similar)||1 pair||1 Pair|
|09||Snow Gaiters Water Proof (For Winter use)||2||2|
|10||Crampon Good Condition (New and Old)||1||2|
|11||Normal/Classical Ice Axe||1||1|
|12||If possible Technical Ice –Axe Ina Group||1 set||1|
|13||Harness Adjustable Good Condition (Mix Climbing)||1||1|
|14||Ice screw Black Diamond or similar (Each Member -Size 13cm and16cm)||1||2|
|15||Screw Gate Carabineer (HMS)||3||3|
|16||Non Screw Gate Carabineer||2||2|
|17||Ascender (Jumar) Right Hand||1||1|
|18||Belay Device( Figure of 8/ATC)||1||1|
|19||Backpack 50ltr.Capacity with Waterproof Cover||1||1|
|20||Rock Pitton (3 Sizes - 6cm/8cm/12cm)||1||3|
|22||Tape Sling - Each Member(60cm and 120cm)||1||2|
|23||Spare Changing Clothes for Low Elevation|
|24||Assistant Rope - 7mm||5/8 m||2 Pcs|
|25||Carry Mat (Thermarest)||1||2|
|26||Day Pack (Capacity 35 Ltrs with Waterproof Cover)||1||1|
|28||Personal Medication &First Aid Kit||1 set||1 Set|
|30||Water Bottle capacity 1Ltrs||2||2|