"Adventure around scenic Arun & Barun valley with daring climb on top Mt. Makalu"
- Mode of Accommodation: Lodge / Camp on trek and camping at BC &climb
- Climbing Grade: Full Fledge Mountaineering Expeditions
- Expedition Durations: 50 Nights & 51 Days
- Total Expeditions: 57 Nights & 58 Days
- Season: March to May
Mount Makalu Expedition, one of the most technical mountains to climb to its summit at above 8,516 m and 27,940 ft high which is wholly in Nepal with some northern portions lies within Tibet near Kharte valley area.
The mountain first climbed by Swiss Expedition in May 18th 1956 lead by F. Luchsinger and E Reiss. Since then Mt. Makalu is frequently visited and climbed although a tough peak with daring challenge to encounter to reach its black rock pyramid summit of Mt. Makalu, where its names derived as ‘Great black’ in Nepalese language.
Mt. Makalu Expeditions located around Nepal Far North East Himalaya west of Kanchenjunga third highest and east of Mt. Everest where walk leads you into scenic Arun and Barun valley and on the least trekked areas by trekkers and adventurer.
The area around Makalu added as ‘Makalu & Barun National Park’, where more than 3,000 species of flowering plants, 440 different birds life and 75 mammals species, which includes endangered clouded leopard, red panda and musk deer exists, a remarkable bio-diversity of the areas considered to be of global importance and significance which provides a living laboratory for international biology and zoology research.
Mt. Makalu Expedition begins from the capital Kathmandu and then flying high over rolling hills and valley overlooking range of Himalayan peaks which includes from Langtang Himal to Everest with Makalu and Kanchenjunga as small aircraft lands at warm areas of Tumlingtar town airfield.
From Tumlingtar leaving the sub-tropical temperatures heading higher to cooler areas on the mid hills of Makalu area at Num village, where our adventure starts walking towards the last permanent Sherpa village Tashi Gaon and then leaving human settlement for a month into complete wilderness of pristine surrounding of valley and mountains.
Walking towards higher ridge of Kongma-la, Shipton-la and into enchanting woodland of tall rhododendron, hemlock, pines, oaks, magnolia and fir tree lines and then on reaching at scenic Barun valley as tree lines fades to short alpine shrubs and bushes facing incredible scenery of mountains with Baruntse, Chamlang and Mt. Makalu.
As walk progress reaching at valley end within massive icefalls and glaciers around Mt. Makalu base camp where our actual adventure begins with much rest days for acclimatization and practice and dividing loads to ferry towards number of camps required for the final summit bid.
Depending upon favorable weather with clear day heading for the summit top with daring climb of vertical limit challenge then on top of Mt. Makalu with alluring scenery of dramatic landscapes-valley and series of snow capped peaks with views of Mt. Everest rare Khansung the East Face.
After a most exciting time and adventure of a lifetime experience return journey on the same route to Num for the drive towards warmer areas at Tumlingtar for sweeping scenic flight back to Kathmandu with overwhelming memories on Mt. Makalu Expeditions.
- Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu 1,300m via respective airlines.
- Day 02-04 Free day in Kathmandu for expedition preparation.
- Day 05 Fly to Tumlingtar (950m) 40 minutes' flight and drive to Num 1,500 m -05 hrs.
- Day 06 Trek to Seduwa (1,493m.) Approx: 6 hours.
- Day 07 Trek to Tashi Gaon (2,200m) Approx 3-4 hours.
- Day 08 Trek to Khongma Danda 3,500 m - 06 hrs.
- Day 09 Trek to Dobato 3,700 m cross Tutu La & Shipton La over 4,230 m -07 hrs.
- Day 10 Trek to Yangle Kharka 3,620m -06 hrs.
- Day 11 Trek Langmale Kharka or Jark Kharka 4,400 m -06 hrs.
- Day 12 Trek to Makalu Base Camp 4,650m -05 hrs.
- Day 13 Rest day at Makalu Base Camp for local hike and preparation for the climb.
- Day 14-48 35 Days for full climbing period and back to base camp setting High Camp, Camp I, II, III & IV for the summit of Mt. Makalu.
- Day 49 Clean up Base Camp.
- Day 50 Trek to Yangle Kharka 3,620 m - 07 hrs.
- Day 51 Trek to Dobato 3,700 m -06 hrs.
- Day 52 Trek to Khongma Danda 3,500 m -05 hrs.
- Day 53 Trek to Seduwa School 1,495m - 07 hrs.
- Day 54 Trek to Num -04 hrs, after lunch drive to Tumglingtar -04 hrs drive.
- Day 55 Fly back to Kathmandu & transfer to hotel.
- Day 56-57 In Kathmandu with sightseeing tour.
- Day 58 International departure for home ward bound.
Arrival in Kathmandu 1,300m via respective airlines.
On arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuwan International Airport received by our staff and transfer to your Hotel, where our guide provide briefing of the Hotel, Kathmandu, Climb, Trekking / Camping, do's and don'ts and other necessary information.
Free day in Kathmandu for expedition preparation.
Reserved three full days in Kathmandu for final preparations and packing as well to purchase necessary equipments, meeting and to collect permits from concern Government department for the expeditions, during these days one can join in for optional sightseeing tour at places of interest around Kathmandu-Patan and Bhaktapur cities, where you will be soaked within culture and historical sites most of the monuments listed as World Heritage Sites.
Fly to Tumlingtar (950m) 40 minutes' flight and drive to Num 1,500 m -05 hrs.
Morning transfer to Kathmandu domestic airport for short and scenic flight to land Tumlingtar airport around Arun valley, during air grand views of Himalayan peaks from Ganesh-Langtang-Jugal Himal to Everest with Makalu and Kanchenjunga towards far eastern horizon.
Soon landing at Tumlintar grassy airstrip after 40 minutes of sweeping flight, where our trekking and expeditions crews and porters receives you for an exciting drive towards mid hills of Makalu areas, ride leads north past warm sub-tropical areas of Arun valley through number of farm villages and town of Khandbari, and then reaching cooler areas with views of Makalu in the distance.
After an interesting drive of four hours or less reaching at Num village for overnight stop in a hill village inhabited by mixed tribes of Nepal, Newar-Rai-Sherpa-Tamang –Gurung and Magar with Hindu Brahmins and Chettries.
Trek to Seduwa (1,493m.) Approx: 6 hours.
From Num setting off down with steep slopes past terraced farms towards Arun River, with about 800 meters drop, the lower area of the narrow gorge densely forested and the paths are quite slippery, on reaching at the bottom.
After downhill then cross a suspension bridge over torrential Arun River, our route leads to a climb and out of the rain forest, reaching our lunch spot at small farm areas of Runruma.
After lunch, a steep climb up to Sedua for overnight stop in a village with a small health post and a primary school, overnight camp by the schoolyard.
Trek to Tashi Gaon (2,200m) Approx 3-4 hours.
Trek to Tashi-Gaon a short day walk of few hours probably reaching there for lunch as well with overnight stop. Morning walk leads past rural farm villages, on gradual winding trail into farm fields and terraces, and then reaching at Sherpa village of Tashi Gaon.
Where walk leads to a climb for an hour through millet and rice terraces, Tashi Gaon populated with mostly Sherpa people which is quite unlike from the Sherpa of Everest, although follows the same culture and religion of Buddhism.
Different in the way they live, as the Sherpa of Tashi Gaon being migrated and settled in low warm areas a bit different with agriculture way of life and traditions.
Trek to Khongma Danda 3,500 m - 06 hrs.
Tashi Gaon the last village on-route to Makalu basin, after this village starting with refreshing walks for an hour into beautiful shade of rhododendron and oak forest, on leaving dense forested areas then reaching a summer pastures with traces of temporary cattle herder’s shades.
From here heading to a steep climb into cool forest to Kohama ridge, where tall tree line fades for short rhododendron and juniper bush, Khongma Danda for overnight camp on a ridge top.
From the camp enjoy the views Mt, Kanchenjunga, Mt. Makalu towards North with fresh mountain cool air.
Kongma located at height of above 3,000 m high, a pleasant and scenic spot this scenic high spot with number of overhanging rocks with caves that makes good cozy shelters for local herders, travelers and as well to our porters.
Trek to Dobato 3,700 m cross Tutu La & Shipton La over 4,230 m -07 hrs.
With wonderful morning and views of surrounding beautiful landscapes and snow capped peaks, morning walk follows on gradual path with few short ups and down through Thulo Pokhari (big pond) and Sano Pokhari(small pond).
In snow condition, the trail can be quite misleading and arduous to locate, the trail from last pond leads to over Tutu-la and Shipton-La pass at above 4,075 m high. Here onward downhill and then back into vegetation with trees at Mumbuk area, with views of Khumbukarna Himalaya, afternoon walk leads downhill to reach within Barun Valley.
After a wonderful trek entering into lush alpine area at Barun Valley with gradual up slopes, following Barun River upstream towards our camp at Dobato, a summer pastures for the locals.
Trek to Yangle Kharka 3,620m -06 hrs.
From here onward within scenic and beautiful enclosed and hidden valley of Barun with glacial streams that joins further down into Arun River, morning walk heading due west on slow uphill with bushes of juniper and azalea (dwarf rhododendron) along the trails crossing the same icy stream several times to reach at a large field at Yangle Kharka for overnight stop.
Trek Langmale Kharka or Jark Kharka 4,400 m -06 hrs.
As our walk progress heading closing to our destination at Makalu, where morning continues with gradual uphill climb with views of surrounding peaks of Baruntse-Chamlang and Makalu and the finally ending our nice day walk at Langmale Kharka / Jark Kharka for overnight stop on a summer pasture of Yaks summer grazing field.
Trek to Makalu Base Camp 4,650m -05 hrs.
A little beyond the camp crossing Barun River by way of couple of wooden bridges, which make use of conveniently situated boulders encountering large prayer wall, after few hour walk, as green vegetation gets sparse, although rhododendron, barberries, cotoneaster and juniper bushes persist for some times.
Our lovely day walk leads into high alpine areas reaching at Sherson within lower Barun glacier with towering Mt. Makalu.
Sherson located lower from the base camp of Mt. Makalu, walking past number of stone enclosures around on high grazing areas with outstanding host of peaks to look at includes upper part of Makalu south face, with Mt. Baruntse 7,220m peeking above peak 4.
From Sherson trek on with closer views of Mt. Makalu and Barun Pokhari as walk finally reaches our starting point of the climb at Makalu base camp with rare sight of Everest Khanshung face with Lhotse nearby.
Rest day at Makalu Base Camp for local hike and preparation for the climb.
Rest day at Makalu base camp with free time for individual activity or hike further up for best view of the peaks of that surrounds base camp, a great opportunity for grand view of Everest East Face and some other peaks that adjoins with Makalu Mountains.
With time sorting gears for the climb and enjoy the day relaxing saving your energy for the Big Day!
35 Days for full climbing period and back to base camp setting High Camp, Camp I, II, III & IV for the summit of Mt. Makalu.
Morning leads to a climb westwards to reach our advance camp, below Makalu west pillar as the altitude gains slowly, taking time with few stops walk follows a faint path which climbs an ablation valley on the west side of the Barun glacier. Following this valley onto the glacier make the way over the boulder-strewn caves and ice to a camp known as Puja Camp below the towering Mt. Makalu West Pillar. Our strenuous climb on glacier to Advance Camp rewarded with unique views of Lhotse and the rare Kangshung face of Everest.
A necessary and spare as contingency day for proper acclimatization and preparation for the climb to Mt. Makalu summit, on this day where you will be busy sorting out the gear and foods for the climb and then final checking of the equipment, where our expert guides scouts possible and safe route for the climb.
Thirty Five Days maximum duration for the final bid and assault on top Mt. Makalu summit and return adventure to base camp, over this stretch of time provides you ample time to acclimatize with some practice on rocks and ice, before heading for final bid to the summit top.
35 days includes climb to the summit, where our expert guides and team members will be busy ferrying loads to respective high camps. Makalu one of the tough and technical mountains which requires maximum of 3 more camps before the summit top.
Our team of climbing guides will set camp III, at above 7,200 meters where members will sleep only one night at this top camp before heading to the top.
After full preparation at ABC climb through moraine covered in glacier and then head towards Camp I at 5,350 meters, after climbing on boulders of rocks and ice within scree slope to reach the required Camp I.
The camp is located on a broad snow field at the foot of the ridge leading up to a serac barrier which is one of the few technical sections on route.
At about 7,200 meters the ridge is a line of ice cliffs here fixing ropes and snow bars. Normally we will have one rope for the ascent and another for descent on this pitch, which is about 80 meters high.
This is the toughest part of the climb but with some difficulty, high above the serac climb out onto a plateau cut by huge crevasses, a winding path between to pitch Camp II at about 6, 800 meters.
Above Camp II broad snow slopes lead more easily to Camp III at 7,600 meters. This is the highest camp and make the summit bid from here. Summit day as always involves an early start. Depending on snow conditions might encounter some easy scrambling as the climb gets in progress making way up and across the low angled South West Face.
The top of the summit a small plateau offering views of Everest-Lhotse-Baruntse Himal with adjoining peaks and as far towards Kanchenjunga at eastern horizon.
After feeling in high spirit with successful climb head back to Advance Camp after a tough adventure to reach world 5th highest Mt. Makalu at summit at above 8,463 m and 27, 766 ft high.
After great successful climb taking maximum of two days to reach back at base camp with long descend, on route gather and clean the camps, within two days all climbing members and staffs should be at Base Camp for return journey and packing.
Clean up Base Camp.
At base camp with final packing and checking each members health, necessary spare day to clean up the Base Camp and leaving nothing except your foot prints and memory.
Trek to Yangle Kharka 3,620 m - 07 hrs.
Trek back towards end of the valley to Yaangle Kharka for overnight, using the same route with chances of spotting some wild-life along this pristine surrounding.
Trek to Dobato 3,700 m -06 hrs.
Trek back to Dobato near Mumbuk, on leaving at the end of beautiful Barun Valley with some ups to encounter and back into tree lines to reach our overnight camp in the midst of alpine woodland at Dobato near at Mumbuk.
Trek to Khongma Danda 3,500 m -05 hrs.
Retracing our journey back to Khongma danda located on a high ridge after crossing Shipton-la and Thulo and past two glacial ponds or Pokhari to reach at Kohongma for overnight camp.
Trek to Seduwa School 1,495m - 07 hrs.
Trek back to Tashi Gaon and continue walk towards Seduwa taking the same or another alternative route through Nabagaon on the upper trail for 2-3 hours, where walk leads into cool shade of forest after leaving the forest area, coming towards the farm terraces a to the village of Naba-Gaon, another Sherpa village which is much larger than Tashigaon, situated right above the Seduwa village.
From here an hour downhill to camp at Seduwa around its primary school premises with time for local short walks.
Trek to Num -04 hrs, after lunch drive to Tumglingtar -04 hrs drive.
Last day walks of the adventurous walks and climb with downhill through farm fields for an hour or more, then reaching at Arun River to cross over a bridge with few hour climb back to Num for the drive to Tumlingtar, downhill of few hours to Khandbari, headquarter and administrative town of Sanka-Suava district of Makalu region.
From here with long descend to reach warmer areas at Tumlingtar for last overnight stop in a local lodge with time to arrange last night dinner party with fellow members-crews and porters before flying back to Kathmandu.
Fly back to Kathmandu & transfer to hotel.
Depending upon flight time transfer to Tumlingtar air terminal and then taking sweeping flight to Kathmandu overlooking view of snow capped and then landing at Kathmandu airport with short drive back to your hotel.
In Kathmandu with sightseeing tour.
With full two days reserved as contingency or a spare day in case of delay on climb or on local drive, which can occur due to landslide with bad weather conditions on this free days enjoy relaxing or join in for sightseeing tour.
On these days our leader and guide will submit the reports of Mt. Makalu Expeditions to concern Nepal Government Tourism department.
International departure for home ward bound.
After a grand adventure and experience on world 5th highest Mt. Makalu with successful climb, depart from the hotel to the airport for final departure homeward bound or to your respective destinations.
Note: The above itinerary should be taken only as a guide line; it could change due to weather, availability of clean water and campsite, trail or any other unforeseen conditions.
Price includes following services:
- Accommodation sharing twin at Hotel in Kathmandu for 7 nights on Bed & Breakfast basis.
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu.
- Half day guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu with applicable entrance fees.
- Internal flight Kathmandu / Tumlingtar / Kathmandu with applicable airport taxes.
- Trekking arrangement backed by Sherpa Guide and porters / yaks from Tumlingtar to Base Camp and back on full board basis.
- Applicable Climbing Permit & Conservation Fees.
- Service of Climbing Sherpa/s (1 member : 1 Climbing Sherpa) assisting in fixing ropes, setting up camps with their equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
- Group Climbing equipment – Climbing Rope, Fix Rope, Snow Bars.
- Service of Government Liaison Officer with his equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
- HA Tents, Food, Fuel above base camp.
- Garbage Disposal and Garbage Deposit charge.
- Supply of Oxygen (1 member :4 Cylinders) with hiring charge of mask & regulator sets.
- Supply of Walkie Talkie and Base Station for communication purpose.
- Supply of Satellite Phone for communication purpose on emergencies.
- Supply of Medical Kit and Gammow Bag to be used in case of emergency.
- Load ferry bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpas.
- Climbing Route opening charge.
- Transfer of Expedition Loads to / from Base Camp.
- Insurance for Nepalese crew.
Our price does not include followings:
- International flights to / from Kathmandu.
- Nepal entry visa fees.
- Lunch and dinner while in Kathmandu Hotel.
- Travel, Medical and Personal insurance.
- Rescue evacuation in case of emergency.
- Personal clothing and personal trekking gear including sleeping bag & down jacket.
- All sorts of personal climbing equipment.
- Expenses of personal nature, i.e. tipping, laundry, bottled drinks, bar bills etc.
- Any expense for early returning member due sickness, injury or any other reason. No refund will be entertained for any unused service.
- Extra expense occurred due to unexpected circumstances like cancellation of internal flights, floods, strike etc.
For the Expedition of 8000m, one should not compromise with the quality of equipment. Please try to buy / pack well tested and good brand equipment so that your dream to climb the mountain does not disappoint you because of lack of equipment after the years of hard work, dedication and financial expenses.
Here will be a guideline of personal equipment that you need to organize for such extreme climb:
Personal Climbing Equipment List for 7500-8848meters
|01||Three season sleeping bag(-40 Degree)||1||1|
|02||Three season sleeping bag for B.C||1||1|
|04||Down Gore-Tex Suit||1||1|
|05||Down Jacket (-30 Degree)||1||1|
|06||Fleece Pile Jacket (Thermal)||2||2|
|07||Fleece Pile Trouser Warm (Thermal)||2||2|
|08||Windproof Jacket &Trouser||1||1 Pair|
|09||Thermal Suit (Millet/Mountain Hardware/Others)||2||2|
|10||T-shirt and Woolen Shirt Warm||3/3||6|
|13||Down Mitten Gloves-40 Degree||1||1|
|14||Woolen Hat, Fleece Hat & Balaclava||1||3|
|18||Face Mask (Full)||1||1|
|19||Thick Woolen Shocks & Normal Shocks||4pairs/5pairs||9 Pairs|
|20||Trekking Boot Good Condition||1 pair||1 Pair|
|01||Sunglasses UV 400 (Julboo/Ockley/others)||2||2|
|02||Snow Glasses UV 400 (Julboo/Ockley/Cebe/others)||1||1|
|04||Sun-block Cream (Small Tube 30SPF 125ml and 50SPF 125ml)||½||3|
|06||Headlight with Spare Bulbs||1||2|
|07||Enough Batteries for Headlight||1 Pair||10 Pairs|
|08||One-sport Climbing Boot (Millet or similar)||1 pair||1 Pair|
|09||Snow Gaiters Water Proof (For Winter use)||2||2|
|10||Crampon Good Condition (New and Old)||1||2|
|11||Normal/Classical Ice Axe||1||1|
|12||If possible Technical Ice –Axe Ina Group||1 set||1|
|13||Harness Adjustable Good Condition (Mix Climbing)||1||1|
|14||Ice screw Black Diamond or similar (Each Member -Size 13cm and16cm)||1||2|
|15||Screw Gate Carabineer (HMS)||3||3|
|16||Non ScrewGate Carabineer||2||2|
|17||Ascender (Jumar) Right Hand||1||1|
|18||Belay Device( Figure of 8/ATC)||1||1|
|19||Backpack 50ltr.Capacity with Waterproof Cover||1||1|
|20||Rock Pitton (3 Sizes - 6cm/8cm/12cm)||1||3|
|22||Tape Sling - Each Member(60cm and 120cm)||1||2|
|23||Spare Changing Clothes for Low Elevation|
|24||Assistant Rope - 7mm||5/8m||2 Pcs|
|25||Carry Mat (Thermarest)||1||2|
|26||Day Pack (Capacity 35 Ltrs with Waterproof Cover)||1||1|
|28||Personal Medication &First Aid Kit||1 set||1 Set|
|30||Water Bottle capacity 1Ltrs||2||2|